Recommended power systems for “Electric Convertible*” HANGAR 9 models: P-51D Miss America 60 ARF Motor: E-flite Power 60 (EFLM4060A) ESC: Castle Creations Phoenix 80 (CSEPHX80; Standard settings with 18V Soft Li-Po cut off and no brake) Prop: APC 15x10E (APC15010E) Battery: Thunder Power Pro Lite 6000mAh 6S3P (THP60003S3PPL x2 in series) Flying Weight w/Battery: 8.8 lbs Amps Volts Watts Input Watts/Pound RPM 56.0 21.3 1195 136 7375 This power system setup delivers an excellent balance of thrust and top speed for the P-51. Average duration is approximately 8-15 minutes depending on throttle management. *Conversion may require some minor airframe modifications along with installation of motor mount and motor, electronic speed control, battery tray and battery packs.
Choose the lightest weight, highest power engine you can find, within the engine recommendations. The Saito 100 is a very good choice with this plane for unlimited performance.
You can use any 5-channel radio system.
Standard servos are more than adequate for the plane. But keep in mind that the better servos you use, the better the plane will fly. A low profile retract servo will also be needed.
The P-51 does have pre-installed retracts in the wings, so unless you switch them out to a fixed gear (which requires much modification), or have a way to lock the retracts in the down position, you must have at least a 5-channel system.
Since the P-51 is a semi-scale model it has been slightly tweaked to fly very well, but it does still have some qualities that make it a plane for relatively advanced pilots. Because of this, a beginner should not fly it. It does land very slowly for a plane of its type, and does perform very well. The retracts positioning however, does make it difficult to taxi, and except when at flying speed, up elevator should be used to prevent nosing over. In the air, the P-51 flies very smoothly, and has no bad habits.
The engine is at 0 degrees down thrust, the wing is at +3 degrees, and the tail is at +1.5 degrees.
Step 3This kit had 6 ¾” dihedral, instead of the listed 6 ¼”. This however is not critical on this model, and causes no ill effects in building or flying.
Steps 1 through 6The pictures on pages 10 and 11 all show the shorter JR arms. These should be changed to the 1” arms recommended before installing the servos on the mounts.
Step 4Drilling the 3 parallel holes for the control horn is very difficult and takes some time to get the control horn backing plate onto the screws. Just be patient and drill them the best you can, and if necessary you may need to drill them out a couple times to get them to line up. Some CA put in the holes drilled will help keep things secure.
Step 1These did require some trial and error to get to fit, but it was not overly difficult. Just take your time to make them fit properly.Step 4Here again, this did require some trail and error to fit properly. Again, just take your time.Step 8The hardware provided used e-clips to secure the quick connects to the wheel. This took some time to do, but after you get the e-clips into place there are no problems using them.Step 10Clipping the excess wire was found to be difficult to do, since there is limited area to work in. I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. A 90-degree adapter on the dremel may provide some assistance to cut these wires.The retracts did require some set up work to operate correctly as it required some adjustments on the quick connects and a little trial and error, but is not too difficult to complete. Be sure that they lock in both the up and down positions with the servo.
Step 5The straps are metal, and not a nylon strap as shown in the pictures.Step 7After drawing the line from the top to the bottom on the fairing, remove the fairing from the landing gear and proceed with the rest of the step.Step 9The screws for this step are not wood screws as stated, but rather socket head cap screws that thread into the lock nuts supplied.Some CA may be required to secure the fairing on the landing gear leg, as these were still free to rotate a little bit. Just put some CA under the straps on the landing gear leg.
Step 7 and 8You can do these steps in reverse order to speed assembly some. Check to see if the stab is parallel with the wing before removing the stab. Then if it is not, after removing the stab lightly sand the saddle to square it up.Also in step 7, pay special attention to the cautions in the manual, which mention not pressing hard with the knife when removing the covering from horizontal tail. If it is cut to deep, it will fail.Step 10Here again, pay special attention to the cautions in the manual, which mention not pressing hard with the knife when removing the covering from vertical tail and fuse. If they are cut to deep, they will fail.Step 12If you put epoxy in the saddle it will make a mess on the covering on one side. I just put some on the center section of the stab before installing it onto the fuse.
Step 2Be very careful to drill exactly on the center of the elevator and straight, so you do not drill through the outside of the elevator. Extreme caution should be taken, or you will damage your elevators.Step 3Be absolutely sure that the elevators line up with each other in this step. Bend the wire as necessary to achieve this.
Step 3Drilling the 3 parallel holes for the control horn is very difficult and takes some time to get the control horn backing plate onto the screws. Just be patient and drill them the best you can, and if necessary you may need to drill them out a couple times to get them to line up. Some CA put in the holes drilled will help keep things secure.Step 5This should be done on the right side of the rudder, and not the left side as stated.
Step 7Hold the tank up to a light to be able to see the vent and the clunk lines to be sure they are positioned correctly. The tank being white does make this harder to see, but holding it up to a light will allow you to see the lines.
Step 5You will need to drill a 5/32” hole for the pushrod tube, not 1/8” as stated.Step 7I added a piece of balsa stick behind the tank with some foam in between it and the tank to keep the tank from sliding back.
I secured the battery and receiver with foam and some balsa sticks in the area above and behind the fuel tank. This is the area right in front of the canopy. You may need to adjust this position as required to achieve the correct CG of the plane.
Step 3I also marked the position of the needle valves on each side on the paper at the same time, and transferred these marks to the cowl as well.
Balance the plane 4 ¾” back from the point where the wing meets the fuse at the very front. This is the very front of the wing. On this plane, it balanced without adding any weight or moving anything with the battery right behind the fuel tank.
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