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Key Features

  • Great aerobatic performer
  • Outstanding scale rendition of the renowned Reno racing plane
  • Improved, factory-installed retractable landing gear
  • Hangar 9® UltraCote scheme in authentic Miss America colors
  • Lightweight balsa-and-ply construction

Needed To Complete

Recommended power systems for “Electric Convertible*” HANGAR 9 models:


P-51D Miss America 60 ARF
Motor: E-flite Power 60 (EFLM4060A)

ESC: Castle Creations Phoenix 80 (CSEPHX80; Standard settings with 18V Soft Li-Po cut off and no brake)

Prop: APC 15x10E (APC15010E)

Battery: Thunder Power Pro Lite 6000mAh 6S3P (THP60003S3PPL x2 in series)

Flying Weight w/Battery: 8.8 lbs

Amps Volts Watts Input Watts/Pound RPM
56.0 21.3 1195 136 7375



This power system setup delivers an excellent balance of thrust and top speed for the P-51. Average duration is approximately 8-15 minutes depending on throttle management.

*Conversion may require some minor airframe modifications along with installation of motor mount and motor, electronic speed control, battery tray and battery packs.

Overview

She’s one of the fastest, most beautiful and certainly most recognizable airplanes in the world. Since 1966, Miss America has traveled all over the United States, serving as a symbol of freedom and liberty while capturing such aeronautic honors as Reno Air Racing champion and National Unlimited Class champion.

Now Hangar 9® presents one of the world’s most famous aircraft as a .60-size scale ARF. The latest addition to Hangar 9’s popular P-51D Mustang series is the P-51D Miss America 60 ARF, which comes complete with an authentic red, white and blue UltraCote® trim scheme and preinstalled retractable landing gear.

Miss America features performance levels to match its extraordinary appearance. It can rip and bank like any nimble .60-size sport plane, handling full-throttle loops, hard turns, low-level breaking passes and high-G maneuvers with assurance. And when the rubber hits the road, Hangar 9’s improved retractable landing gear provides a stable landing, thanks to its stiffer struts that prevent wobble and a lock-in feature. Smooth contours, authentic Miss America markings and a gorgeous trim scheme just like that of the full-scale plane complete an exceptional scale appearance.

Flying Weight: 7.0 - 8.5 lb (3.2 - 3.9 kg)
Recommended Environment: Outdoor
Wingspan: 65.5 in (166.4 cm)

Parts Listing

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FAQs

Product Support Tips

What engine should I choose?

Choose the lightest weight, highest power engine you can find, within the engine recommendations. The Saito 100 is a very good choice with this plane for unlimited performance.

What radio system should I choose?

You can use any 5-channel radio system.

What servos should I choose?

Standard servos are more than adequate for the plane. But keep in mind that the better servos you use, the better the plane will fly. A low profile retract servo will also be needed.

Can I fly the plane on a 4-channel radio system?

The P-51 does have pre-installed retracts in the wings, so unless you switch them out to a fixed gear (which requires much modification), or have a way to lock the retracts in the down position, you must have at least a 5-channel system.

How difficult is the P-51 to fly?

Since the P-51 is a semi-scale model it has been slightly tweaked to fly very well, but it does still have some qualities that make it a plane for relatively advanced pilots. Because of this, a beginner should not fly it. It does land very slowly for a plane of its type, and does perform very well. The retracts positioning however, does make it difficult to taxi, and except when at flying speed, up elevator should be used to prevent nosing over. In the air, the P-51 flies very smoothly, and has no bad habits.

What are the incidence angles of the P-51?

The engine is at 0 degrees down thrust, the wing is at +3 degrees, and the tail is at +1.5 degrees.

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

Step 3

This kit had 6 ¾” dihedral, instead of the listed 6 ¼”. This however is not critical on this model, and causes no ill effects in building or flying.

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

Steps 1 through 6

The pictures on pages 10 and 11 all show the shorter JR arms. These should be changed to the 1” arms recommended before installing the servos on the mounts.

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Control Horns and Linkages

Step 4

Drilling the 3 parallel holes for the control horn is very difficult and takes some time to get the control horn backing plate onto the screws. Just be patient and drill them the best you can, and if necessary you may need to drill them out a couple times to get them to line up. Some CA put in the holes drilled will help keep things secure.

Section 5: Installing the Retract Servo

Step 1

These did require some trial and error to get to fit, but it was not overly difficult. Just take your time to make them fit properly.

Step 4

Here again, this did require some trail and error to fit properly. Again, just take your time.

Step 8


The hardware provided used e-clips to secure the quick connects to the wheel. This took some time to do, but after you get the e-clips into place there are no problems using them.

Step 10

Clipping the excess wire was found to be difficult to do, since there is limited area to work in. I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. A 90-degree adapter on the dremel may provide some assistance to cut these wires.
The retracts did require some set up work to operate correctly as it required some adjustments on the quick connects and a little trial and error, but is not too difficult to complete. Be sure that they lock in both the up and down positions with the servo.

Section 6: Installing the Main Landing Gear Wheels and Fairings

Step 5

The straps are metal, and not a nylon strap as shown in the pictures.

Step 7

After drawing the line from the top to the bottom on the fairing, remove the fairing from the landing gear and proceed with the rest of the step.

Step 9


The screws for this step are not wood screws as stated, but rather socket head cap screws that thread into the lock nuts supplied.
Some CA may be required to secure the fairing on the landing gear leg, as these were still free to rotate a little bit. Just put some CA under the straps on the landing gear leg.

Section 8: Installing the Tail Group (Horizontal and Vertical Fin)

Step 7 and 8

You can do these steps in reverse order to speed assembly some. Check to see if the stab is parallel with the wing before removing the stab. Then if it is not, after removing the stab lightly sand the saddle to square it up.
Also in step 7, pay special attention to the cautions in the manual, which mention not pressing hard with the knife when removing the covering from horizontal tail. If it is cut to deep, it will fail.

Step 10


Here again, pay special attention to the cautions in the manual, which mention not pressing hard with the knife when removing the covering from vertical tail and fuse. If they are cut to deep, they will fail.

Step 12

If you put epoxy in the saddle it will make a mess on the covering on one side. I just put some on the center section of the stab before installing it onto the fuse.

Section 9: Hinging the Elevators

Step 2

Be very careful to drill exactly on the center of the elevator and straight, so you do not drill through the outside of the elevator. Extreme caution should be taken, or you will damage your elevators.

Step 3

Be absolutely sure that the elevators line up with each other in this step. Bend the wire as necessary to achieve this.

Section 11: Installing the Elevator and Rudder Control Horns

Step 3

Drilling the 3 parallel holes for the control horn is very difficult and takes some time to get the control horn backing plate onto the screws. Just be patient and drill them the best you can, and if necessary you may need to drill them out a couple times to get them to line up. Some CA put in the holes drilled will help keep things secure.

Step 5


This should be done on the right side of the rudder, and not the left side as stated.

Section 12: Assembling the Fuel Tank

Step 7

Hold the tank up to a light to be able to see the vent and the clunk lines to be sure they are positioned correctly. The tank being white does make this harder to see, but holding it up to a light will allow you to see the lines.

Section 13: Mounting the Engine

Step 5

You will need to drill a 5/32” hole for the pushrod tube, not 1/8” as stated.

Step 7


I added a piece of balsa stick behind the tank with some foam in between it and the tank to keep the tank from sliding back.

Section 15: Installing the Rudder, Elevator, and Throttle Linkage

I secured the battery and receiver with foam and some balsa sticks in the area above and behind the fuel tank. This is the area right in front of the canopy. You may need to adjust this position as required to achieve the correct CG of the plane.

Section 16: Attaching the Cowl

Step 3

I also marked the position of the needle valves on each side on the paper at the same time, and transferred these marks to the cowl as well.

Section 18: Balancing and Control Throw Recommendations

Balance the plane 4 ¾” back from the point where the wing meets the fuse at the very front. This is the very front of the wing. On this plane, it balanced without adding any weight or moving anything with the battery right behind the fuel tank.

Product Support

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Hangar 9 Product Support

Technical questions about this product should be directed to Horizon Hobby's Product Support Department:

Sales Support

If you would like to purchase this product, please go to the Store Locator or contact the Horizon Hobby Consumer Sales Department:

Horizon Hobby, Inc.
ATTN: Consumer Sales

4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, IL 61822
Email: Sales Phone:(800) 338-4639
Fax:(217) 355-1552