4-in-1 Control Unit
While the 4-in-1 control unit main motor and tail motor ESCs are readily capable of handling all in flight power loads, and even brief momentary bursts beyond these typical loads, they can be damaged if excessive amounts of current are pulled through them for an extended period of time. This period of time may vary depending on the actual motor, pinion, and battery pack used (Please see “Motor, Pinion, Heat Sink and Battery Configurations”), so it is best to keep any momentary overloads as short as possible in order to prevent damage to the 4-in-1 ESCs.
In the event of a crash, regardless of how minor or major, you MUST throttle back both the main and tail motors as quickly as possible. If a crash occurs when flying in Normal Mode (with the throttle trim increased any amount beyond the lowest setting), you will need to lower the throttle/collective stick AND throttle/collective trim immediately to prevent damage to the ESCs. If a crash occurs when flying in the Idle Up flight mode, you will need to switch back to Normal Mode while also lowering the throttle/collective stick and trim immediately to prevent damage to the ESCs.
Take your time when making adjustments to the gyro gain and tail rotor proportional mix pots. Because each model is factory flown and adjusted the settings should be very close out of the box when using the stock set up. Some minor adjustments may be required out of the box depending on the condition of the battery pack used and personal preference, and some minor adjustments will be required when installing the Aerobatic Enhancement Kit and 3-cell Li-Po packs.
You should adjust the tail rotor proportional mix so that the nose of the helicopter stays as straight as possible in hover with the rudder trim centered and no rudder input. This setting will change depending on the condition of the pack used (i.e. – fully charged vs. partially charged, Ni-MH vs. Li-Po, etc) so try to find the setting that works best throughout most of the flight. Once you have this set correctly you will be required to add a slight amount of left or right rudder trim throughout the flight to keep the nose straight (due to the always decreasing voltage of the battery pack through the flight) but the trim changes required should be minimal. When using 3-cell Li-Po packs for power, the rudder trim changes required during a flight will be less than when using 8-cell Ni-MH packs due to the more consistent discharge voltages Li-Po cells typically offer.
Tail Rotor Blade and Drive Gear
The tail rotor blade and drive gear are installed on the tail rotor shaft using a short section of silicon tubing. This allows the rotor blade and drive gear to “pop apart” in the event of a tail rotor strike or crash in order to prevent significant damage to the parts. Before each flight it is important to check the security of the silicon tubing keeper on the shaft and to ensure that the tail rotor blade and drive gear are fully seated and secured. This is especially important, even after a quick tail rotor strike or minor crash when you are most likely to forget.
As long as you have confirmed that the silicon tubing keeper, tail rotor blade and drive gear are secure before flight, you should not experience any problems with these components coming loose in the air. For those who may prefer a more secure method of mounting these components, understanding that it will not allow the parts to “pop apart” in the event of a tail rotor strike or crash, you can replace the silicon tubing keeper with a small wheel collar.
For those looking to find replacement silicon tubing keepers, they are included separately in the O-ring Set (EFLH1158) or with the replacement tail rotor drive gear and shaft set, landing skid set, and battery support set.
Main Motor, Pinion, Heat Sink, Battery and Main Blade Configurations
When using the recommended main motor, pinion, heat sink and battery configurations we have experienced very good main motor life (better than any other models in this class). We have main motors in stock and Aerobatic Enhancement Kit equipped models with more than 100 flights that continue to perform very well.
For those who may be experiencing premature main motor wear, it is likely the result of excessive current draw causing damage to the motor rather than brush wear. Excessive current draw can be the result of using the wrong main motor, pinion, heat sink and battery configurations, improper gear mesh or constant power on blade strikes and crashes (shock damage). For these reasons you MUST follow the power system configurations recommended to achieve expected motor life. These configurations are:
EFLH1110A - 370 Main Motor with 8-Tooth Pinion:
For use with 3-cell Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades. This is the most efficient setup for long duration hovering and basic sport flying when using 3-cell Li-Po packs. Must use a heat sink (EFLH1132).
EFLH1110B - 370 Main Motor with 9-Tooth Pinion (Included with Aerobatic Enhancement Kit [EFLH1168]):
For use with 3-cell Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades for hovering and sport flying, with less duration than when using the main motor with 8-tooth pinion. Also for use with 3-cell Li-Po packs and symmetrical main blades for sport flying and aerobatics. Must use a heat sink (EFLH1132, also included with Aerobatic Enhancement Kit).
We suggest 860–900mAh packs for all-out aerobatics with durations up to 15 minutes and 1200–1320mAh packs for basic aerobatics and longer durations up to 25 minutes or more.
EFLH1110C - 370 Main Motor with 10-Tooth Pinion (Included with the stock BCP heli right out of the box):
For use with 8-cell Ni-MH packs and flat bottom main blades for hovering and sport flying. This is the most efficient setup for long duration hovering and basic sport flying when using 8-cell Ni-MH packs. DO NOT USE THIS MOTOR AND 10-TOOTH PINION WITH 3-CELL LI-PO PACKS AS IT WILL DRAW EXCESSIVE CURRENT RESULTING IN SHORT MOTOR LIFE, EXCESSIVE RF NOISE POTENTIALLY CAUSING RADIO “GLITCHES” AND DAMAGE TO THE 4-IN-1 ON BRIEF BLADE STRIKES OR EVEN DURING FLIGHT. Use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1132), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.
EFLH1110D - 370 Main Motor with 11-Tooth Pinion:
For use with 2-cell Li-Po packs and flat bottom main blades for hovering and sport flying. We suggest packs from 860–1320mAh. DO NOT USE THIS MOTOR AND 11-TOOTH PINION WITH 3-CELL LI-PO PACKS AS IT WILL DRAW EXCESSIVE CURRENT RESULTING IN SHORT MOTOR LIFE, EXCESSIVE RF NOISE POTENTIALLY CAUSING RADIO “GLITCHES” AND DAMAGE TO THE 4-IN-1 ON BRIEF BLADE STRIKES OR EVEN DURING FLIGHT. Use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1132), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.
Also, we find it is best to allow the main motor to cool to near ambient temperature between flights.
When using the recommended heat sink and battery configurations, we have experienced very good tail motor life (better than any other models in this class due to the use of a specifically designed N30 motor vs. N20). We have tail motors in stock and Aerobatic Enhancement Kit equipped models with more than 100 flights that continue to perform very well.
For those who may be experiencing premature tail motor wear, it is likely the result of excessive current draw causing damage to the motor rather than brush wear. Excessive current draw can be the result of using the wrong heat sink and battery configurations or constant power on blade strikes and crashes (shock damage). Vastly excessive amounts of gyro gain can also result in increased and excessive current draw. For these reasons you MUST follow the heat sink and battery configurations as well as gyro gain settings recommended in order to achieve expected motor life. These configurations are:
8-Cell, 9.6V Ni-MH Packs
When using 8-cell Ni-MH packs for power, use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1131), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.
2-Cell, 7.4V Li-Po Packs
When using 2-cell Li-Po packs for power, use of a heat sink is optional (EFLH1131), though it can help to improve duration and motor life.
3-Cell, 11.1V Li-Po Packs
When using 3-cell Li-Po packs for power, use of a heat sink is required (EFLH1131, also included with the Aerobatic Enhancement Kit).
Also, we find it is best to allow the tail motor to cool to near ambient temperature between flights.
Collective Pitch Response
Some Blade CP owners have found the collective pitch response of their models to be slow or “sticky.” For those who may experience a slow or delayed collective pitch response, here are a few tips to help improve the response. Please note that not all Blade CP models exhibit the slow or delayed collective pitch response and these steps are not necessary for those models that may already be responding well:
Note - Models equipped with the 3 Ball Bearing Blade Grips (EFLH1162B) also have improved fitting head components to further prevent sticking of the Rotor Head and Flybar on the Center Hub.
Rotor Head and Center Hub
The fit of the Rotor Head (034, found in the Exploded View on page 25 of the manual) on the Center Hub (008) should be as close as possible without binding. If there is too much clearance between these parts it could lead to slop in the head assembly, resulting in poor control of the model. To prevent this, as designed, the parts should have a close fit but not bind or drag when collective pitch input is given.
To check the fit of these parts, first remove the Paddle Control Frame Pushrods (009) from the Paddle Control Frame (031). Next, remove the Pitch Control Links (006) from the Rotor Head Frame A (005). This will allow you to test the action of the rotor head assembly on the center hub. If you feel there is some resistance in the action of these parts, first remove one Flybar Paddle (001) and Flybar Weight Collar (069), loosen the setscrew in both Collars (004) and remove the Flybar (003) assembly. Next, remove the Cap Head Screw (029) and Center Hub Cap (030) and you will be able to slide the rotor head assembly and paddle control frame off the center hub.
With the rotor head assembly removed, take a look at the hole that passes over the center hub. By very carefully using a 15/64” drill bit (do not use a bit any larger, as it will create unwanted slop in the fit of the rotor head on the center hub), you will be able to open this hole a small amount more to allow for added clearance of the rotor head on the center hub. This will help to remove some of the resistance that may have existed in these parts and, after testing the action before re-assembly (without the flybar installed), it should be noticeably smoother.
If you find the action of the rotor head on the center hub is very smooth without the flybar, temporarily install the flybar and check again. If you then find there is still some resistance in the action of these parts, take a look at the flybar fit where it passes through the slot in the center hub (See “Flybar Slot in Center Hub”).
Flybar Slot in Center Hub
Another possible location of resistance may be in the slot where the flybar passes through the center hub. With the rotor head assembly and flybar temporarily installed on the center hub, apply a small amount of twisting pressure between the rotor head/flybar and center hub while moving the assembly up and down. You may find that the flybar is contacting the sides of the slot in the center hub causing resistance in the action. By using a sharp hobby knife blade, medium to fine grit sandpaper or small file you can actually open the slots on both sides of the center hub slightly to help eliminate some of the material the flybar may be contacting when under flight loads. Remove only a small amount of material at a time, as you do not want to weaken the center hub but you do want to allow the flybar to pass through the slots with no resistance.
Note - This tip does not apply to models equipped with the 3 Ball Bearing Blade Grips (EFLH1162B) as they utilize additional step washers and bearings to eliminate any "stickiness" due to drag of the washers/spacers on the bearing.
Some customers have reported “stickiness” in the collective response due to drag of the washers/spacers on the bearings in the Main Blade Grips (037). To help prevent this you may choose to replace or reduce the diameter of the Washer (040) in the blade grips and swap it with the Washer/Spacer (039).
Please keep in mind that this may actually amplify the negative effect of a noisy or worn bearing. If you do still experience stickiness after making this change, you should replace the Bearings (014) in the blade grip. E-flite is working on a further improvement for future product after testing is complete.
First you will need to remove the Main Blades (042) from the main blade grips by removing the Socket Head Cap Screw (036). Then remove one of the two Socket Head Cap Screws (013) from the Spindle (016). This will require the use of two 1.5mm hex wrenches (one 1.5mm hex wrench is already included in the Mounting Accessories bag included with your Blade CP), one to hold the spindle and one socket head cap screw from rotating and the other to loosen the other socket head cap screw. After removing one of these socket head caps screws you will then be able to remove the main blade grips and spindle shaft from the center hub (after also disconnecting the Paddle Control Frame Pushrods  and Pitch Control Links ). Some force may be required, so be careful not to lose any of the Washers/Spacers (039, 040), Stepped Washer (015) or O-Rings (038).
After removing the spindle from the main blade grip, wrap the spindle with a cloth or paper towel and grip the spindle tightly with pliers. This will allow you to remove the second socket head cap screw from the spindle with a 1.5mm hex wrench. With both socket head cap screws, washers and washer/spacers removed you can choose to reduce the diameter of the washers (040) to approximately no more than 3/8” (~5.0mm) or replace them with two 2mm flat washers (like those available at most shops from Du-Bro; DUB2107).
Once you have reduced the diameter or replaced the washers, you will now need to re-assemble the spindle and blade grip assembly, reversing the location of these washers with the washer/spacers (039). The order of parts when assembled to the spindle will now be:
Socket Head Cap Screw (013), Washer/Spacer (039), reduced diameter/2mm flat Washer (040), Spindle (016)
Repeat this assembly order for the other end of the spindle once you have properly re-installed all the blade grip, stepped washer, O-ring, etc. parts on the helicopter using the exploded view for reference. Once you have confirmed all parts have been assembled correctly, paying particular attention to the fact that the reduced diameter/2mm flat washers should be contacting the inner race of the outer blade grip bearings (the bearings closest to the main rotor blades), use the two 1.5mm hex wrenches to firmly tighten both socket head cap screws in the spindle. Re-install the paddle control frame pushrods and pitch control links and the model will now be ready for test flying. Do note that some small changes to the blade tracking may be required, depending on the positions in which you re-install the pitch control links.
As is the case for any of the models we offer, E-flite will continue to update and improve the design and performance of the Blade CP. We appreciate your support and hope you enjoy flying your Blade CP. If you have any questions regarding these bulletins and performance enhancement tips, or have any other support needs, please feel free to contact Product Support directly at (877) 504-0233.